A Standout Camo Jacket: The Simplicity Hackalong

My latest sewing inspiration is a Sanctuary jacket I spotted at Anthropologie. All the details on this jacket were right up my alley. Particularly the abundance of top stitching and the two piece sleeve with the addition of generous top stitched elbow patches. Yes, this jacket is my jam.

My starting point was a pattern made for hacking, the Simplicity 8700 jacket. The simple lines of this pattern were almost identical to the inspiration. All it needed were all those amazing details and some camo twill from Joann's.

Here is how I made it happen.

-After reading Lori's post at Girls in the Garden on this pattern, I went with a medium in the body and a small in the sleeves. I also took  out an additional 1/2" of ease in the sleeves and 1" in the body.
-Added 1" to the sleeve length
-And because I wanted the jacket to hit me right at the bend of my leg, I shortened the body to 26" 

Sleeves details: 
-To get the look of a two piece sleeve I divided the sleeve pattern piece into 2 pieces approximately 1/3 & 2/3 and added seam allowance to each, then sewed the two pieces together, and added 2 rows of top stitching to the seam on the right side. 
-The elbow patches were drafted in a 8" tall trapezoid following the shape of the sleeve starting about 4 " from the cuff, and stopping about 1 1/2" away from either side of  underarm seam, I pressed under the edges 1/2" and top stitched the patches to the sleeve (before sewing the underarm seam) for added detail like the original.

Cuff details: I sewed lines of top stitching 1/4" apart; split the cuff and added a tab with a buttonhole and button.

 Top stitching: 
-I used Gutermann top stitching thread in an off white #30  with a top stitching needle (not a microtex needle). The top stitching needle has a bigger eye and worked really well with the heavier thread in my 20 year old Bernina virtuosa 160. 
-The bobbin is regular Gutermann thread in an olive green to match the wrong side of the fabric.
-The  top stitching took some thought but I created a plan because much of the top stitching had to be done prior to construction.  
-Just like the cuffs, the lower  pocket flaps were interfaced and top stitched prior to attaching the lining . I did this for two reasons, the ends of the top stitching rows were encased in the seams and there was less bulk to top stitch through. 
-The pockets were attached by top stitching them in place. 
- I left long thread tails and pulled them into the nearest seams when I was finishing.

Happy sewing!


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